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Jump to country: Spain, Portugal, Spain again, France, Germany, Czeck Republic, Poland, Lithuania/Latvia
SPAIN
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Our faithful companions. |
28th of March 2011, hot and sunny day in Barcelona. Spring came to this city long time ago. For me - it seemed that spring never whent away. Only became milder and in mid-January again with full power manifested it self. Everyday fiesta of blooming flowers and trees, warmer and longer days.
It was really hard for us to leave a place where we have spent all winter. First it seemed that we won’t hang there for a long time, but in the end it was accepted as it is and became our home and shelter. Anyway, free food and friends always is hard to leave.
The great unknown was awaiting us. With mas o menos two months of bike tripping around the Europe. Crossing many countries.
The morning of departure seemed very surreal. It can’t be happening, but it was. It’s time for us to leave. We have to go. So to make it more surreal we got high and danced the shamanic hard bass dance with Igor. That should help us on trip he said.
Leaving Barcelona was long and exhausting. Endless street web filled with running cars and thoughts of doubt running across my head. Should we really do it, maybe we can stay. Pros and cons where shooting through my head…
But the first and hardest step was made. After first day of cycling we are behind Tarragona, found a nice place in abandoned plantation. Eating nice dinner scored in Eroski supermarket trash: Freshly boiled pasta with tomato/shroom souse and some bread. Day wasn’t so long; we didn’t have much time to cycle, because it was getting dark around 18 or 19. So our dinner and first impression chat was spent in darkness. After quick dinner we’re off to sleep.
29th march
First night was great. Good, healthy sleep, with no cold. Packed our stuff and we’re rolling. Today is a strong wind right in the face. Soon we are at Miami platja – last time when we where here we have found some good stuff in Caprabo trash. Now it wasn’t so good, but anyways a pack of rice, pack of pasta, jar of pickles and Monster energy drink was good found.
That day we left Catalonia. The day passed a bit boring because we where going the same road that we took on our way to Barcelona from Alicante. There wasn’t much to choose from, N-340 the only good highway that goes along the beautiful shore of Mediterranean sea. Extra 1-1,5m lane on sides of highway and little traffic and almost no trucks, that is what we like.
The rocky mountains of this area wasn’t impressing us so much this time. I’m already used to hills and cliffs… day is over tomorrow Valencia.
30th march
In the morning we woke up and decided to ride to Safehouse nr.1 to have a breakfast – a small empty house by the almond tree plantation. House had fireplace and some water supply. It was a nice staying on the way to Barcelona.
Morning is spent in bad mood for both of us. I really don’t know/remember why. We’re not speaking, just cycling to Safehouse to have a breakfast. 10km and first trip tire puncture for me. Fast change – ready to go. We didn’t cycle even 50m and Gita has one too. While she’s doing repairing I go to nearest almond plantation to check it out. Happy, happy, joy, joy! I discovered that among fresh green almonds there are left some nuts from previous year and they are not rotten. That’s good. I get my pockets full of them. That will be my pre-breakfast snack. Almonds are good food for cyclists. Actually green, young almonds also taste pretty good, a bit sweet and very juicy.
In a while we got to Safehouse. We are lucky and it’s still empty. We’re having rice/banana porridge for breakfast.
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| Safe house |
The weather is very hot. I don’t know how many degrees, but it feels like at least +28 when the wind ain’t blowing. After the breakfast I’m checking bikes, coz there are some new components installed, I must be sure that everything works fine and Gita had another flat tire. It’s not a good sign. It also appeared that she is lost one spoke in back wheel. It’s broken by the nipple and we need replacement as soon as possible.
Today we have spent quite a lot time by safehouse soaking up sunrays, but still managed to go almost 100km till the end of the day.
We’re camping in a small forest by the road. Making soup for dinner out of pasta, rise and some fresh picked ‘hare sauerkraut’ for vitamins.
During the day we discovered that mandarins and oranges are still on the trees. And they taste even better then in November, when we where cycling to Barcelona It was a huge and pleasant surprise for us. Fresh and juicy fruits right from the tree is a good vitamin supply.
31st march
In the morning one more flat tire was awaiting us. Starts to seem a bit too much, something is wrong, but we cannot find a reason. Fixing and rolling and after 14km we’re in Sagunto. Pretty big town, with a castle witch stands on the top of the mountain above the city. My mobile phone is discharged empty and all the maps are gone. We have no navigation on day 4 – not a good sign. My solar panel, purchased specially for the trip, doesn’t seem to be working very good. It charges mobile very slowly.
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One of the architectural masterpieces of Valencia.
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After coffee and biscuits in the park we’re moving forward. By midday we’re already in Valencia. Temperature on thermometer shows +24C. Flowers and decorative mandarin trees are blooming, spreading sweet and stunning aroma across the city. We have spent some time in central park, eating lunch and watching people run around. In my opinion one of the most beautiful parks I saw in Spain. It seemed to me like dried river basin, stretching through the entire city. River is gone and now it’s filled with many walks, bicycle paths, fountains, sculptures and sport fields instead of water. In this region of Spain a lot of rivers are dried out, what’s left is only rocky ravines.
By the evening we pass Cullera. Tonight we’re sleeping again by the mandarin plantation. For supper we have boiled eggs with bread and salads found in Consum supermarket and strawberries for dessert.
Night was cold, in the night our tent became very wet because of condensate and morning dew. It looked like a huge storm has passed around.
1st april - 2nd april
We have only one day to go to Benidorm where we’ll meet our friend Roma and get accommodated in normal apartment. Morning hours we spend at gas station charging my mobile from socket coz my solar panel really sucks – even in sunny Spain.
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Mediterranean Sea. Approximately 20 km before Benidorm. |
Close to Benidorm we see a lot of familiar place, that remained in our memories. The area is getting hillier. Dusty and rocky mountains are surrounding us all over. First multi kilometer climb and struggle against the head wind and hot weather. Tough conditions for cycling tourist. I’m climbing and thinking of how good is that it’s spring time and the weather isn’t hell-hot right now. It would be impossible to climb those mountains for us.
By the end of the day we’re in Benidorm awaited by Roma. At his apartment we’re taking normal shower, witch we didn’t have since we where last time here, pulling on casual clothes and of to the bar. I’ve got pretty drunk that night.
Next day is spent on the beach of Benidorm around fatty tourists from all over the world; we’re taking sun bathes and eating ice cream. In the evening tourist walk around town.
3rd april
Not so early in the morning we’re on the road again. Got some food from hotel Roma is working in. Huge toaster bread and a lot of one lick jam packs. Around midday we’re in Alicante. The city doesn’t seem as impressive as we saw it when we came out of the plain in November. Weather is also cloudy and not so warm. We didn’t want to spend much time here so we had a lunch on the beach of Alicante and took the road to Murcia - away from shore, but straighter road and fewer mountains. Wind was blowing in the back and we where flying. Now again everything will be new for us. New roads – new adventures. Soon road got really flat. Mountains are left somewhere by the sea. Views here ain’t so exciting but at least it’s easy to ride.
By the end of the day Gita got 3 more punctures and I wasn’t able to find the fault. It seemed that the tire had some kind of sharp edge witch was puncturing inner tube all the time in the same place, but we couldn’t find it. Mystic! So in the end we decided jut to throw out still ‘usable’ Schwalbe tire. It’s very sad! I like Schwalbe. In the place we’re putting backup folding Maxxis tire.
We are sleeping aprox. 30km from Murcia on the rocky ground by lemon plantation witch is emitting super sweet blooming flower smell, witch totally opposite to lemon taste.
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Mandarins, lemons and oranges often appeared in our daily menu while we traveled through Spain and Portugal.
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It was hard to find a good place for the tent in this region; the ground consists of rocks and clay and is very uneven. So we had to put our tent on some grass and small bushes to make it softer to sleep.
4th april
Ah… what a great morning! After a nice sleep. First time on the trip I was sleeping like a baby and didn’t felt ruffled with numb hands or shoulders. Falling asleep was a bit hard because of grass and bushes, moved by the wind, annoyingly where scratching our tent. And our bike alarm went off during late evening…
In the morning thanks to tail wind we are very soon in Murcia, city looks super fancy and it’s sooo hot here. Framcias’ thermometers are showing +28, but it feels a lot more. At the entrance of the city we get to 666th kilometer of N-340 road, witch we are riding many days. Again Gita gets coupe punctures. I’m frustrated! What’s wrong? Now it’s other Schwalbe tire.
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| Highway to hell |
We got through Murcia very fast and soon we where in the suburbs by the LIDL containers. There we got some beer, milk, sugar, few eggs and couple of squished chocolate Easter bunnies, had a quick meal - ice cream and peanuts and we’re rolling away.
Wind is our best friend today. In the blink of and eye we have +20km. Rolling 40 km/h through Spanish country side. Small road almost without any traffic goes along endless blooming mandarin plantations and wheat fields. But suddenly our run is stopped by autobahn witch was not supposed to be here according to my maps. In the maps autobahn appears as a usual road. What to do? We won’t go back to Murcia more than 20km against the wind that’s for sure… A little pee pause and it’s time to check area around the highway. It appeared that this autobahn had a ‘via de servicio’ – a service road that goes along the highway. Not very good pavement though, but it’s better than ridding back. Couple of kilometers down the service road and oops… water obstacle… a small river that flows under the highway. Not too deep so we put our bikes on our shoulders and carry them over the river. It’s not very good when water gets inside hubs. It’s was refreshing also because sun still burns hot and sea is far away now. Bad thing is that GPS maps are out of date and now it’s a bit risky to totally rely on them.
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Searching for the road.
GPS device had betrayed us once again, so we had to go through this drainage pipe, to avoid from autobahn.
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Late in the evening while searching for a night place we unexpectedly enter Lorca - a pretty big city. It’s evening rush hour and road is jammed with cars. We’re moving very slowly through the city it’s hard to navigate fully loaded bike through jammed unknown streets even with my bike messenger skills. Sun is also going down fast and city doesn’t seem to end. We could not find the end of the city and we had to sleep in the suburbs by a football field.
We’re having rice soup with some found during the day vegetables. GPS is discharged and I’ve found out that I have lost solar panel charging cable. I’m super frustrated, plus all those endless punctures. We are dammed.
Evening was chilly. The night is cold. Everything around is wet. I had to put some extra clothes for the night to remain warm.
5th april
Day begins with a puncture. All morning is spent on gas station figuring out what’s wrong. No success!
After Lorca we’re taking direction to Aguiles - a town near sea. Again my maps play a bad joke on us. Normal road in my maps looks like motorway in real life, but we didn’t see no bicycle restriction signs and traffic wasn’t heavy either so we decided to go. Long and exhausting climb was awaiting us over the costal mountain range, but it was worth it. Now after snail-slow climb we are blasting 40- 60 km/h down to the Aguiles. Downhill lasted for about 17 kilometers. It was breath taking. By the end of the road we saw highway end sign – ok, so we broke the rules, but it was fun!
In the city we encounter DECATHLON - sport super market. There we by new tire for Gita, new gas cartridge and new sport socks for me. Now we have to find a gas station to change tires. 300m from gas station we have another flat. FUCK! DAMN! What’s wrong? I’m really pissed off. I take everything of the wheel this time, examine it carefully and success! I have found that fucker who was spoiling our trip! After changing broken spoke in Benidorm a small sharp edge was left on wheel tape and was poking inner tube all the time. I’m taking old tape off and putting new patch tape from our first aid kit. Problem solved! But after all this we are left with very little tube patches. We need new ones and in DECATHLON they are ridiculously expensive, need to find alternative shop.
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| Shore of Andalusia |
In gas station we’re charging our phones and mp3 players, changing tires and we’re ready to go. Few kilometers and we’re in Andalusia. It’s so beautiful here. Little hills with caves, large so far! All coast is scattered with fancy villages with white houses, many hotels and tourist entertainment places. Last hard climb and fast and dangerous, because of strong wind, downhill and we’re on the coast away from civilization. But mild day wind is already became too strong to put the tent on the beach and blew away our plans of evening swimming and morning sunrise watching.
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Somewhere before Almeria.
Seven hard kilometers up to the hill and approximately the same distance down, struggling with crosswinds and enjoying ambient magnificence of nature.
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We where looking for a safe place away from the wind on the beach and saw an old man whose car was stuck in the sand. We thought to offer our help. Lucky day for an old man. I think without us he wouldn’t get out of there. To thank us for our help the man gave us a soda can, only thing he had, but also he appeared to be some kind of geologist. The man knew all the places around here and showed us a way to old abandoned houses in the hills. It was a big bonus for us in this situation, because wind was getting stronger and stronger and by the night it became an angry storm.
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In this house we spent a night, because there was storm outside.
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We found a house 1km away from the coast. A very old rural house with wooden windows and doors. The roof was damaged and it was all dusty, but still it had a fireplace and it was better than staying outside. So we fired up the fire place, boiled some pasta and enjoyed our diner in safe but bit spooky place.
6th April
I wasn’t able to fall asleep this night. Wind was making too much noise all night long, pushing windows back and forth, opening doors and shaking roof. The house in the night became a bit creepy with all these noises. I scared myself with thoughts about killers, maniacs and witches like in Texas chainsaw massacre and wasn’t able to sleep. So I sat by the fireplace all night keeping the fire holding my knife close, just in case…and watching Gita sleep peacefully, wind wasn’t a problem for her. I felt asleep only at dawn. I was too tired to keep myself awake.
We woke up round 8 the wind was still there outside shaking roof and bending palm trees. We made breakfast out of last pasta with sugar and jam, ate it, got to the road and started cycling. Thankfully the wind was in right direction and we where flying.
Today new landscape was awaiting us. Huge, dry rural fields and almost no civilization. No shops, no gas tanks only rocks, sand, dry grass and some lonely houses painted in white to protect their inhabitants from harsh summer sun. It’s hot and we have no water. All houses we see on our way seem empty, not a one living soul around. I’m sure would not want to be here during the summer. Finally we meet one granny who is glad to help us, now we have agua para beber.
Empty fields went on and on until we reached some small city. Here we found endless ‘fields’ of greenhouses with growing tomatoes, but we have lost our route and afterwards each other. A small misunderstanding between us led to quite bad feelings of fear witch afterwards transformed into panic. I went to look for a right road between greenhouses and when I came back Gita was gone. First I thought that she went to pee or hiding herself from the wind, but after 5-10 minutes she’s still gone, something is wrong. We had no possibility to call each other so it became a huge problem for me right now. Searches in near distance ended up with failure. Creepy thoughts where running through my head, feelings of panic arose. Strong wind was making everything even worse. What will I do now? What to do? Who to call for help? Is it end of the trip? Am I really cursed? An hour and a half passed in search, bitter feelings of panic and loss of the close person where mind numbing. But as I said it was just misunderstanding and we found each other on the turn to the right route witch I have found before. I was so happy and angry at the same time, she was just sitting there because she thought I told her to.
We’re again together and we’re rolling in direction of Almeria, by the midday we should reach the city. Now we’re surrounded all over by greenhouses cultivating tomatoes, paprika and other sun loving vegetables, witch are exported all over Europe from here.
70 kilometers and we’re in the city - right in midday. It’s overcast but still hot and air is stuffy. Time to have lunch – cookies with refreshing ‘diesel’ (cola + beer). I’m physically and mentally exhausted, because of accident at greenhouses. Gita also looks depressed. While relaxing I made a DIY, MacGyver style substitute for the lost cable for solar charger, it should work
After lunch we’re rolling through all Almeria to find a place to relax, I am tired and don’t wanna go very far from here. City is dusty and didn’t impress me at all. We’re out of the city, but it’s hard to find a place to make a camp. Endless greenhouses start to stretch along the highway. By the end of the day in Dia supermercado we find some vegetables, fruits, and sunflower seeds. Big catch! My mood is one bar up…
We weren’t able to reach the end of endless greenhouses today, so we decided to sleep between them, not a fancy place to stay, but at least wind ain’t blowing and it’s warm here. Night also was very hot, maybe because of greenhouses. I don’t know, but I had to sleep outside of sleeping bag.
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South of Spain, after Almeria. All around nothing but greenhouses
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7th April
Without any a due we are packed and rolling to nearest gas station to wash ourselves and eat something, couple of bananas that’s all, normal breakfast we’ll eat by the sea, witch is in 14 km distance. It’s a nice sunny day and we decided to spend some time by the sea. This is the last day we’ll see Mediterranean Sea because tomorrow we are heading North-West to Alhama de Granada.
Here beach consists of small polished rocks and today it’s totally empty so we go swimming nude. Swimming ended up not to good for me, I was needled by sea urchin. Sting was super painful, but I was lucky that I only got three needles under my skin. I took two of them out right away, but one I had to grub out with safety pin and still there was something left inside of me and the hurt wasn’t going away for at least one month. It’s was very unpleasant experience form me. Be careful when you’re going swimming in these waters.
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Mediterranean Sea. South of Spain.
These sea urchins are really dangerous if you step on them
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We spent couple of hours on that beach lying around naked, we had enough sun baths and now we’re have to go. All packed and ready to go, but inside I feel a bit lazy, I’m getting tired of cycling, but long distance still awaits us.
Day is hot and road is not easy today, all the time goes up and down along cliffy coast, snaking between the rocks and never stopping tomato greenhouses. Many smaller size tomatoes are wasted here, thrown out on sidewalks or thrown into containers, so now we have enough fresh tomatoes to put on bread and into the soup.
Tonight we are a bit behind Montril, camping in the field. Tomorrow Alhama de Granda and crossing of Sierra Nevada. It’s going to be tough. The reason we’re going to Alhama de Granada is it’s legendary thermal springs and baths built around them by Muslim invaders in 12th century.
8 – 10th april
Morning was fast; we got our stuff together and started a ride towards mountains. Starting from the sea there is a shallow climb all the time, but very subtle. On a last gas station marked on map we fill all the bottles with water plus extra 1,5L in camelback, because according to map we’re crossing Sierra Nevada through forest territories. Road goes through a huge canyon witch was nibbled by mountain river, it still flows there, but has very little water. The feeling is amazing, being surrounded by huge cliffs around, riding along river. It’s still chilly here. Seems like this place doesn’t get to much attention of the sun. Very soon we have to turn away from these beautiful road and take smaller road witch goes directly into the mountains. The road starts to climb here, after 2 km we’re stopping for breakfast. A lot of sandwiches and yerba mate for extra power. It’s around 11 in the morning but it’s already getting hot here. The road all the time goes up, passing through small and peaceful mountain villages. Views are astonishing; we are climbing higher and higher. Ahead more mountain peaks are visible, beneath the road there is a notch witch becomes deeper and deeper after each kilometer that we ride forward into mountains. Beautiful, quiet nature surrounds us once in a while disturbed by waterfalls and brooks and small springs leaking all over the place. Like on Discovery channel. Feeling is so unreal. On our way we find some orange trees growing deep into mountains with super sweet oranges. Eating these fruits is so refreshing it this heat. Water supply runs out very fast.
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Waterfall - Sierra Nevada.
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For our surprise after an hour of riding asphalt pavement vanishes from the road suddenly and gradient rises to at least 11%. It’s becomes impossible to ride our packed road bikes. We decide to continue going forward – maybe it will appear again after a moment. It did not! It took us at least 3-4 hours to get to the top of mountains.
We are above 1108m sea level. It’s super hot an we are totally exhausted, and it’s only 30 km behind our backs and at least 50 more to go to Alhama de Granada. We have almost no water and the scary thing is: there is not a living soul around only mountain peaks in every direction we can see. I would be very scared if I got lost here alone.
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| Deeper into mountains |
We are above 1108m sea level. It’s super hot an we are totally exhausted, and it’s only 30 km behind our backs and at least 50 more to go to Alhama de Granada. We have almost no water and the scary thing is: there is not a living soul around only mountain peaks in every direction we can see. I would be very scared if I got lost here alone.
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Crossing Sierra Nevada.
Road was without asphalt and too steep to ride, so we made a long distance walking and pushing our bikes up to the hill.
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Before going down the hill.
The highest point which we reached crossing Sierra Nevada - 1108m |
We start a slow descent from the peak. It’s impossible to go fast because there is still no asphalt. But at least we don’t have to push bikes anymore. Unfortunately my happiness didn’t last very long. After 5km road goes uphill again and we have to push bikes once more. This scares me now, Gita starts to panic. We have no water, sun is burning and we’re surrounded by vast forest. I cannot understand from my map how many kilometers more we have to go without asphalt. Total silence of fir forest surrounds us. No sign of civilization and water either. It took us 10km and one hour more to get us to the road with pavement. We were feeling unbelievable relief, but our legs are totally wasted and it’s only half way now. It’s time to relax, have a lunch and repair ‘snake bite’ on Gitas bike. She got it in the end of the gravel road.
After a pause we’re riding on. Road goes up and down small hills, we are still above 1000m sea level in the mountains. I can see white peaks of Sierra Nevada on my right, witch reach more than 3000m altitude. It’s good that we didn’t wander us there.
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The long-waited moment- approximately 12 km down hill with breathtaking views all around.
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I’m feeling tired and Gita is so exhausted that she walks up some hills. Road condition also isn’t very good making it harder for us to progress. I’m starting to think of raising white flag, giving up, making a camp here and finish the route to Alhama de Granada tomorrow. At this point our route turns us to the new road witch starts to go down, very fast down. Amazing panorama appeared in front of us. No more mountain peaks, they are left behind, now the earth was going all the way down. Immense territories of olive and wheat plantations appeared like subtle patterns to us. It was like a satellite view on Google earth. Speed was reaching 50-60 km/h. I was screaming in joy. It was feeling like a well-deserved award. The road went down and down more than 10 kilometers until we reached mountain lake. It was Embalse de los Bermejales – basin of Bermehals. Artificial lake made by hydroelectric power plant. Very beautiful. We take a small pause to enjoy sight of clear green and regain breath and we’re on bikes for the last climb and crazy rollercoaster downhill to Alhama. Mission completed! We have made it!
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| mountain lake |
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| other side |
We set up our camp not far away from thermal springs, prepare delicious pasta supper, ate it and without hesitation went to the thermal waters. It’s so pleasant! We have spent couple of hours relaxing in bath warm water after so hard day. A huge prize! This was a ‘from hell to heaven ride’ for us today. We deserved every little drop of that warm water. Late in the night we’re wrinkled as raisins got to sleep back to our camp.
Lessen learned today: don’t trust navigation in mountain area when you are choosing ‘the shortest way’, you might end up on really shitty road with no asphalt and spend more time and energy struggling here than on bigger, longer, but less steep road.
Today we have a cycling-free day. Hurray- hurray! We go to Alhama de Granada to by some food and some drinks for a day. Today we gonna relax and do nothing physical. We have found a small cave near the thermal baths and put all our stuff there. We’re planning to spend a night here in a nice, warm and dry cave in small river canyon.
During our ride through the town we discover that we have left all our tools and bike repairing gear bag in the mountains where Gita had a ‘snakebite’. Damn! This stuff is vital. We have to get it. Also it is impossible to by new stuff here in the town. So we come back in our camp have a breakfast tortilla with olives, then remove all unneeded bags off my bike and start to roll. I have approximately 40 km one way and 40 back, and a huge 10km climb back to the mountains. I’m a bit pissed that I wont have ‘cycling free day’, but I managed to get a positive vibe and tune myself to a nice ride across stunning landscape. One thing that scares me is that I don’t have any tools for puncture repair, if something happens, I’ll have to walk.
In the end it wasn’t so hard. 1 hour and 44 minutes and I’m there and tools are also in place where we left them. I spend some time relaxing and admiring snowy peaks in the distance and I’m ready to fly back. Now I have mp3 blasting in my ears and everything feels great again. Huge downhill second time still was impressive like the first time. This day for me turned out great. Gita also had a good time, like a true cave woman she made a nice dwelling for a next night and had a good time relaxing on the rocks in the sun. We had a nice dinner cous cous, witch didn’t work out very well coz it was our first try, and we’re off to baths again.
Night in the cave was charming, I was very tired after a ride, but I didn’t want to close my eyes because dark sky was lit with many, many stars. I didn’t saw stars for a long time because we where sleeping in a tent. The only thing that was worrying me a bit was night temperature in the cave…
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| our house |
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| view on the sea from the living room :) |
Night was warm and silent. No cars and no trucks where running by, unusually peaceful. We’re lazy in the morning and don’t want to get up. I feel normal today after yesterdays ride not too tired. I get up a go to the flowing by river rapids to wash my super stinky and dirty bike wear. Sun is already toasting so once in a while I take a dip in the river to refresh!
After lunch we’re packing our stuff and ready to go. Sun is burning really hot and today we have wind turned against us and blowing pretty hard in a ‘wrong’ direction, but we’re ready for a fight with the wind and hills.
We got out of the cave after 4 pm. Our day turned out hard because of wind and terrain. By the end of the day tired and weak we take the last 1060m high ridge. It was very long climb, I’m exhausted again, almost gave up to tricky uphill, witch was winding up with endless turns. I was really surprised when Gita, who fell back in the middle of the climb, did it to the end and didn’t give up. She was only 1 min behind me, just couple of turns behind. Girl rocks!
Now as a reward 5 kilometer steep and snaky downhill and we face Montefrio, beautiful village situated around the cliff witch has a church on top of it.
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Montefrio-small village in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains and olive trees.
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We camp behind the town in olive field, the only thing that is grown in this region. For dinner cous-cous with cacao, didn’t work out pretty good. But that is all we had. Today is Sunday and nobody works here on Sundays.
I hope tomorrow hills will end because we’re both tired of climbing. It would be much easier to climb without all the stuff we’re carrying, but it’s the way it is, we can’t do nothing bout it.
11th April
Today we woke up not very early in the morning, both feeling week and dizzy. Was it an altitude responsible or tiredness or maybe it’s the lack of vitamins? Lately we where eating only cookies and pasta. I had a pack of multivitamin pills taken from Barcelona with me, so we took one each, to restore nutrition reserve inside or bodies.
All I saw today was olive tree plantations. During the day I became familiar with all stages of olive tree life. From thin week seedlings, growing in open greenhouse, to the old trees with thick trunk and solid roots, to cut down stumps and tractors smoothing ground for new generation of olive trees.
By the end of the day mountains became smaller and turned into small unimpressive hills. In the evening we reach Cordaboa a big city with heavy traffic. We where lucky and found a big catch in DIA: 36 eggs, tomatoes, fruits and couple of juice packs. We didn’t have to go far with all this because we have found a small forest near the city and made a camp with fire. These evening we’re eating vegetable soup with dumplings because we need to execute a lot of eggs. The rest of eggs got boiled for next days. My first dumpling soup came out excellent even with little salt, because we’re out of it. Our 100g salt supply is empty and almost all the spices are gone except chilly peppers. You cannot eat too much of these.
12th April
In the morning I’m feeling super lazy. Tent and my sleeping bag feels so good and I don’t wanna cycle anywhere. After some time with my thoughts I overcame laziness and crawled out of my hideout to make a fire and breakfast.
After breakfast we stormed the last mountain range behind the Cordaboa city and road again goes all the way down. Olive plantations are gone. Now all we can see is pastures and wheat fields. The land became really flat here. It’s easy to cycle now, but not so exciting though. Good mood is sustained by SKA-P music.
70km on the road have passed fast and easy. Lunch time. ‘Diesel’ and ‘Maria’ cookies in the shade of trees and after a good time off we’re ready to go.
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| does this look like Win XP? |
In the evening we’re passing Azuaga. Some local road cyclist is amazed by our trip and how far can we go with our ancient bikes. Probably guy rides 10sp carbon bike. Yeah, I wouldn’t mind to ride one too, but it would be too risky to take this advanced technology on our bike trip.
We found some fruits and vegetables in Azuaga so we’re gonna eat couscous tonight. It’s always best with fresh vegetables.
13th April
The night was really hot; it was even difficult to sleep. Packed our stuff, sentenced to death couple oranges found yesterday and we’re going to nearest gas station to charge batteries, and eat breakfast. After breakfast time we’re stomping pedals again. Music is blasting in my ears; wind is blowing in the back; no hills and riding is so easy. Till lunch our AVG speed is 30km/h. After 2h of riding we’re in Zafra. Here we also got lucky with dumpster, scored a lot of vegetables, some fruits and a lot of bread. I was missing bread a lot, but could not buy it, because I know how much of it is just wasted. My patience got rewarded. So in the next shop we bought cheese for sandwiches and beer with cola to make “diesel” - weather is hot again.
We’re taking lunch break behind the city. Weather is hot and it’s so delightful to drink refreshing fizzy drink with sandwiches with fresh paprika and tomatoes.
After Zafra the road turned in the direction of Badajoz and wind wasn’t helping much anymore. Around seven we’re approaching Badajoz. We decide to camp in the fields before city and tomorrow enter it. Tomorrow we’ll be in Portugal.
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Before Badajoz.
This uninvited guest had crept into our tent.
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14th April
Night again was hot. Gita had a hard time trying to even fall asleep, but morning was pretty chilly and again everything was wet. We made breakfast on the spot and went to nearest tank to fill up batteries and fix tire puncture. Gitas’ new Michelin Dynamic Sport tire is total crap, super soft rubber makes it vulnerable to punctures.
We took a little trip through Badajoz to find local i-net café and tourist centre to get advices of crossing the border. The guy at tourist centre seemed delighted to help me with an advice and gave me several maps of Badajoz and Portugal.
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| tourist foto - Badajoz |
After a while we’re already crossing our first border. The border is totally empty, no signs of border guards. Nothing changed much on the side, side of Portugal, roads became a little bit worse and road signs are a bit different. Portuguese is very similar to Spanish when it’s written, but is sounds a lot different. Soon we’re approaching the first town – Elvas. First thing we find here are orange and lemon trees growing along the road. And they are full of fruits, witch are super sweet (except lemons) and we’re long after juicy fruits. We picked as much as we could, maybe it’s the last possibility to get ‘em.
Town is nice and tidy. I noticed that car drivers are positive here a lot of them honk when passing by, and we where not cycling in the middle of the road. In the centre of the town is a huge structure an ancient aqueduct (Aqueduto de Amoreira). Many years ago water was flowing here, now it’s only a big wall for tourists to see.
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| Aqueduct in Elvas. Portugal. |
Last days weather is getting really hot in this region. There was no palace to swim in continental Spain, but soon after entering Portugal we noticed a lot of small lakes and pounds along the road. So we decided to take a swim in one of them. Water was already warm here. We also met one old Portuguese man who was picking something in the field around pound. He came to us later, he was very friendly and showed us that here some kind of mint grass is growing. He was speaking Portuguese and only thing I understood was: “Aroma… também!” Portuguese people are friendly!
Today we cycled little kilometers, because of ‘things to do’ in Badajoz and swimming activities, but I enjoyed my first day in Portugal. Nature here is also pleasant. Juicy green fields and trees growing around; rivers and lakes on the sides of the road.
In the end we stop and camp in the tall grass field full of different plats. During the preparation of dinner we ran out of first gas cartridge. It was empty just in time when the bean and tomato soup was ready.
15th April
The morning was very cold and super wet. The tent was soaked with morning dew. I open up the tent to find out that all grass in the field around us is covered with small drops of water sparkling in the rays of morning sun. It’s amazing view. Gita decided to take a ‘bath’ in wet grass; I was feeling already refreshed and still cold notwithstanding that sun was already pretty warm.
Within an hour morning became already really hot, sun was burning the skin on my arms. Some days ago we ran out of sun screen and now we’re cycling unprotected against UV rays. I’m starting to think about heading more north because the heat during the day becomes unendurable for us. It’s good though that we’re cycling in early spring, witch is like really hot summer for us ‘northern people’.
During the day Gita got again 3 punctures. First time in my cycling experience someone has so many flats. Nature around us started to look a lot like in Latvia: dry forests of pine trees, big green fields, little hills, one difference on here on the road sides huge numbers of small lizards and rabbits are enjoying hot spring sun.
By the evening we are at some abandoned village. Squatters paradise. Couple rows of small, the same looking white houses in pretty good condition, some even closed and not devastated from inside. There was also big white church in the middle of the village and an old football field with rusty goals all overgrown with grass. By some houses there where old orange trees growing, it’s like we have apple trees by our country houses in Latvia. Orange trees please me more. I think only one of those houses was inhabited. It was tidy and clean, with smooth cut bushes around it.
We prepared our evening soup out of potatoes, carrots and beans; put our tent near to one of those abandoned houses. The sun was almost set and suddenly old lantern by the house lights up. It was freaky. Why abandoned village needs lights? Eating in the light was nice though. It’s always better when you can see what you are eating, food tastes better.
16th April
In the morning we pack our stuff, pick as much oranges as we can carry and off we go to the nearest gas station, for the breakfast and to charge batteries. The nearest tank was REPSOL muy polular in Spain. Friendly personal and free sockets to charge a phone.
Soon after breakfast, we passed some 10km on shitty N10 road, over the bridge and we’re in Villa Franca de Xira. After Villa Franca starts coastal range, roads starts to go up and down around 200 – 300m hills. Asphalt is poor quality and bit scary to let go of the breaks on downhills because we don’t know what is around the corner. Some descends are really steep, but we have to go down on breaks not to ruin our bikes.
Country side is beautiful here. Little cars, no big towns, a lot of blooming flowers on the side of the road: different color, different shape - simple daisies and exotic lilies.
Road goes through endless villages, witch all look pretty the same: Small and white, but dirty from outside houses. In every village there’s at least one group of grandpas sitting on the bench by the house on the main street gaping on us passing by on our bikes. Soon we’re in Torres Vedras - time to buy us food for fiesta because today we’ll reach our most western point of our trip – Atlantic Ocean. Now we have our bikes packed with all kind of goodies: bread, cheese, chips, sweets and bottle of cheap Portuguese whine in glass bottle.
Now we’re heading towards Maceira to check out thermal SPA on our way to ocean. We found the place, but it was closed and didn’t look like ‘free for all’ thermals like in Alhama de Granada, but rather commercial place, so we passed it and headed towards ocean. The last couple kilometers where exhausting. Steep short climbs around coastal cliffs soaked all of my energy and no ocean in the sight. We arrived to the Atlantics’ at Porto Novo. It was a huge commercial resort with hotels, fancy cafés, golf court and a lot people enjoying ocean waves and hot sand. No place to camp here.
We had to climb around cliffs by the coast with our bikes super heavy on our shoulders before we where able to find a suitable place for camp - away from civilization, hotels and golf courts. On the side of the cliff by ascent that goes at least 80m down to the lonely Atlantic beach. No people in sight, only cliffs, exotic plants and empty beach down under with huge waves - beautiful place.
I didn’t have any energy left to make proper supper so simple bread with cheese and some warm mint tea made us amazingly happy. The feeling of joy is indescribable – we made it to the shore with so little recourses we had and in such a shot time for cycling tourists. We pop open our wine bottle drinking it with pleasure watching sunset, witch wasn’t as impressive as I imagined it from the movies. The sun was quite small and disappeared in cloudy mist before it reached the horizon. But that didn’t mattered at this point. We where enjoying our time together and already bit drunk discussing about our trip to Spain and how much money different people need to fulfill their needs and desires and feel happy and how much time from their lives they have to waste in the workplace to earn that money. I felt amazed how little do I need to enjoy my time and feel happy.
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Our camp place on cliff by Atlantic ocean.
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The night grew cold as we continued our discussion so we put our sleeping bags around us and filled one more glass watching the white tops of the waves down under hit the shore in the darkness. Soon feeling cycled kilometers took over and I fell asleep on the cliffs’ edge in my bag warm and cozy…
I the morning strong wind woke us up. The tent was shaking. I open up the tent door. Shit! - the sky is overcast. Such fiasco! So many days of cycling in the sun and now when we have a free day and we have no sun!
Yesterdays wine didn’t lay much effect on me. Today I’m feeling lively and ready to enjoy our free day on the coast of Atlantic Ocean even though the weather ain’t so good. I prepare breakfast of cacao, bread with cheese and some biscuits. The sun slowly appears from the hill side and now it’s time to get down to the beach. It’s not an easy thing to do. The cliff is made out of stones and clay and both are not holding very well together. Descent starts pretty easy but soon becomes really steep at least 60-70 degrees. As we climb down the small stones and peaces of clay break of and roll down jumping and bouncing. They warn us what can happen to our bodies if we will be incautious. Image how I lay down on the beach with bones broken after the fall scares me so I climb down even slower and more carefully trying not to slip down. In some minutes we are at the beach. The waves here look at least 3m high and with enormous power hitting rough sand of the beach. All ground is decorated with big empty shells and water polished pieces of wood. It’s 12 o’clock, sun is shining, but it’s still chilly. The sand everywhere is wet of wave spatter.
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| on the beach |
We find a place to lie down and in an hour we feel how day becomes hotter and hotter. Pretty soon we’re ready to take a swim, but it was impossible to do. The waves where so huge and powerful as we walked closer to water we started to doubt more if we want to play with this huge nature power. I didn’t find enough courage to stand against waves that where bigger than me, hitting so hard that they could knock me of my feet. But I was unaware of dangers that where so close to me. A huge wave much bigger than others came out of ocean an knocked me down and when retreating started to drag me into the ocean while the next wave was already over me hitting me hard and turning me over. In one second I understood that it wasn’t funny anymore because the third wave knocked me down a pilled me even further in to the ocean. When I had lost ground under my feet; the feelings of panic arose in me. I understood that I can’t do anything against this great force and maybe in seconds I’ll drown. Gita wasn’t able to help me too. I saw her standing on the beach lost. Struggling against gigantic force of waves I was hoping that she won’t run into water to save me otherwise that could end up with to dead bodies. Fortunately I managed somehow to regain contact with sand and on all my four hands and legs I pulled and pushed me out of that trap. I ran out in the safe distance, sat on the sand, I couldn’t say a thing. The feeling of shock still wasn’t letting me go for a while…
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Trying to escape from huge waves...
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We spent all day lying lazy on the beach, enjoying the sun and the waves. In the afternoon we went scouting along the beach for better place to get on the cliff. It appeared that not far away is normal path going up the hill, safe and easy to climb. On our way to our bikes we found a new spot for a camp with flat sandy place for a tent and a little cave and some wood for campfire. The new place was even better. We made a fire and I prepared delicious couscous with fresh vegetables and baked our first DIY bread out of flour and water on bamboolike sticks. It was tasty and easy to make, so we decided to by more flour and next time we’ll have a campfire to make some more bread. Evening came out amazing. Hidden from the wind and warmed by fire we sit in our little cave drinking mate and talk about passed day and what lies ahead of us now. I feel good rested and ready for new adventures.
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Art made by wind
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18th April
In the morning the sky is broadly populated with angry looking clouds. Long time we haven’t seen these clouds. It might rain today. It’s good that we arrived to the coast in time before weather turned bad. We prepare breakfast on the spot, pack our stuff and away we go. Now our goal is our home Latvia aprox. one and a half months away, across all Europe.
I set the course to Castelo Branco passed that town there will be one more thermo SPA place that we wanna check My GPS leads us along small Portuguese roads passing through small rural villages. Without GPS it would be hard to navigate through this subtle web of small rural roads. Poor road condition and bad marking would lead us nowhere. Thanks to that device we’re able to check out deepest Portuguese rural sights hidden away from people choosing main roads.
Despite not very goods roads and head wind today cycling was joyful and interesting. In the evening we reach Santarem a big city in more or less central Portugal. And rain reaches this city too as we arrived to first supermarket to buy some food it starts to pour heavily. Under the roof of supermarket we made two cups of hot ‘coffee’ (some kind of roasted grain, real coffee substitute, tastes great and better for health) and biscuits with spread jelly. A cool addition to our biscuit meal witch started to bore us because of its uniformity.
The rain ain’t stopping, but we have to find a place to camp and we need to find some kind of shelter because I know that our tent won’t hold a night of rain. Doesn’t matter what Lafuma advices, but it was proven in my last bike trip that under not even super hard, but lasting rain tent will soak totally wet. We put our rain gear on and head out of the city looking for some kind of bridge or abandoned house to stay in. In few minutes my legs are soaking wet so are the pants and water starts to also soak slowly through my light rain jacket.
After some 10 km we arrive at the town named Alcanhoes. First urbanization after Santarem. Just before dusk we encounter there an empty house. It was looking bad from outside with half of roof destroyed, but as we entered inside we have found two dry and warm rooms with windows doors and even an old bed. So it was decided to stay there. It was a wise decision because rain continued to pour all night. Even though it was a bit strange filling to stay in some random abandoned house we had a good night sleep on the couch. Bug weren’t biting us and nobody disturbed our peace that evening.
19th April
Morning was overcast, but at least it wasn’t raining anymore. We forced ourselves into still wet clothes and continued our trip. Cycling is good everything around is fresh after rain, pleasant smell of miscellaneous flowers are floating in the air. Soon our clothes are dry again, except our shoes.
In couple of hours we reach Constancia where we according to GPS take a shortcut through countryside. The road was nasty – small but steep climbs and descents were really hard to ride, plus soon rain again started to drop. Lucky we found an old barn just right by the road when it started to pour. A bit relaxed and waited for the rain to calm down we continue. Today we have to find again a waterproof shelter because I don’t trust this weather.
It was a mistake to leave that barn. After couple of minutes rain started to pour again and the second mistake I made I was lazy to pull out rain jacket and put it on and now I’m soaking with water and starting to get cold. The feeling is surreal we’re blasting through the woods, no sight of men, all around are only trees and mountains and rain pouring heavily, rain water streams are going down the hills. After some kilometers we stop at gas station just in time because pouring rain turned into storm. Rain is dropping almost vertically because of torrential wind and it became much colder outside. It’s five o’clock but weather is unridable so we need to find a house for the night. We go through couple of village – no success. Fortunately in the next village already totally soaked and cold we encounter an empty old house. We enter through window witch was broken open. A great feeling of relief overwhelms us, nothing drips on our heads anymore, we put on our warm and dry clothes and go around the house to check what’s here is useful for us. It was a pleasant surprise to find a huge fireplace in one room. I saw something like this for the first time the fireplace was stretching from one side of the room to the other, 5-6m wide and 1 – 1,5m deep, there was a place to sit in the fireplace and huge chimney was going upwards tightening buy the roof. Around the house we found some old wooden furniture and bottle of oil to light up a fire, but mostly house was empty. It looks like no one lives here for a long time. In a while we where enjoying warm fire flames and our wet clothes where hang around fireplace.
We cycled little distance today, but because of weather we have lost a lot of calories and we had a huge appetite. Tomato/pasta soup was prepared and we have baked our second fire bread this time in the pot adding a bit of sodium and lemon juice to get that soft and puffy shape. It came out perfect. Bread is expensive and not so tasty so we decided that we’re making our own bread now. With love!
20th April
The morning didn’t bring us any joy. It was still overcast and raining. We cannot stay here; we have no food except mandarins growing in the garden. We have to ride on despite the rain. We wait until one in the morning until rain calms down a bit than we jump out of the house and continue our journey. But only after 5 kilometres my GPS plays a bad joke on us. Again we are taking a shortcut on the small road witch after a while looses its asphalt pavement. Good that the big road is really near, but if we would see what awaits us we would definitely turn around.
I see down the hill the road we need to take and our small road starts to descent quickly towards it, for a big surprise it didn’t reach the road and went deeper some -30m meters underneath the bridge. Now we are in huge notch with a mountain river flowing underneath. According to GPS we have to pass over the river and climb back 30m to the road. We take our shoes of, roll up pants, bikes on the shoulders and we’re crossing the river. Fortunately it’s only knee deep, but damn cold with rocky bottom, witch is difficult to walk bare foot. Now when we’re on the other side and enormous ascent is in front of us: straight, 100m rocky uphill at least 30 degree steep. How could anyone call this a road and put it on the map? I would like to see a car taking a shortcut here. Even 4x4 would not make it! How did they manage to build this? Lessen learned: newer trust GPS in mountain areas.
It was hard, but we made to the top, but still we where climbing all the time uphill back on the road. We’re cycling through really small villages here. Village consisting of few houses and at least one will be empty. It’s raining again, but we’re right in time reach the bus stop. It’s lunch time also. After a small pause we’re moving on, rain stopped. We have to reach Castelo Branco today in time to buy us food. Road continues to climb and soon we notice that we are so close to the rain clouds we can almost touch them. In the distance I see mountain tops and clouds blown buy the wind slowly scrape the through the peaks. On the other peaks I see amazing view of water evaporating from the woods forming new clouds. Astonished by this scene, we continue our climb.
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Portugal
First time in my life I saw sign like this.
Sure, riding on wet asphalt is especially dangerous, so I checked my brakes :D
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After a prolonged climbing finally there’s a descent too. Big red sign warns in two languages “Check your brakes NOW!!!” and road starts to go down with the sign 6.9%. I noticed Gita, cycling in front of me, pulling on brakes couple of times, that made me laugh for first time in this rainy day, but suddenly I discover that because of rain I have really weak brakes. That stressed me a bit, but descent wasn’t all that scary and soon road was going again uphill. Up and up, until 500m above see level we reached the clouds. We where cycling through clouds, it looked like thick mist. As tick chunks of grey clouds where blown around us it started to rain. We have still 20 km to Castelo Branco.
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| It seems, that we are in one level with all these clouds. |
We have made it in time, our bags are again packed with food there was now only one mission - to find rain proof shelter. It wasn’t raining anymore but, but clouds didn’t seem too trustful to me. Out of Castelo an towards Spanish border after 10km we find ourselves in a town called Escalos de Baixos, there where abandoned construction sight with an old truck witch was open, clean and dry. We decided to stay there. It was an interesting experience to squat a truck for a night. After a long hard day we’re having pasta and a condensed milk with cookies for desert… We have got so tired today, these rainy adventures start to exhaust me, again tomorrow we have to dress ourselves in to wet clothes and carry on. I hope for sun…
21st April
Night in the truck was awesome. The cabin was super warm and comfy. There was raining all night. I the morning we woke up and there was no rain outside, but also no sun. Again overcast. But soon after we woke up it started to rain again and all my hopes for dry and sunny day where washed away.
Nothing to do we have to cycle on. Rain now is dropping just a little bit. N240 road is beautiful. Forestless hills are going up and down. All around in the fields lay gigantic rocks piled in stacks, covered in moss. But I don’t feel happiness of all that surrounds me, I feel tired and tired of rain and all the wet clothes we have to pull on every morning. And also it became much colder last day. We’re cycling in long sleeved jackets and pants with gloves on.
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All day through rain...
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Soon it rains again. We’re approaching the Spanish border and town of Segura where are the hot springs. But my skin on my palms and feet are totally wrinkled and I don’t wanna have more water baths, even warm ones. So we pass Segura and head straight in Spain in direction of Ciudad Rodrigo. Rain is pouring again and our bike trip is more looking like survival trip now. Again we’re soaking wet and cold. Before we reached the first town in Spain (Moraleja) we had to pass 50km surrounded by rocks and enormous wild fields. It was mentally difficult. I was exhausted. I didn’t know how long those rainy days will last, where we’ll stay tonight and will there be warm enough not to freeze. A small stop at Moraleja and we’re cycling on - there where no possibilities to find a place for a night. After some kilometers we’re reaching Parales del Puerto. A small village – a possibility to find another abandoned house for the night. Village was very small and old with many old and empty houses, but all of them where locked. We managed to find only one open house. But it was in such a bad condition that it would be better to sleep outside. We changed our clothes and made some hot cacao, left our bikes locked in the house and went out scouting for a place to sleep. It was getting dark. We went all around the town and the best place we found was one empty houses’ garage door sill witch had a quite big shed roof over it. It was also on outskirts on the village and no one was passing by. We gonna stay here.
For the supper we boiled a pot full of potatoes and ate them with olive oil. Magnificent! It was getting really cold and we had to sleep on concrete so we put on all the dry clothes we had and jumped into our sleeping bags squeezing close to each other. It was warm. I fell asleep soon. Despite conditions we where in I had a decent night sleep. It was raining all night again.
22nd April
I open my eyes and finally see pieces of clear sky, but there are still some big and nasty rain clouds maundering around. It’s 8 o’clock and we are up early. It’s cold and our wet clothes are even colder, but not as brutal as I was thinking.
Today we’re going over Siera de Gata mountain range. The one thing that pleases me is that there will be a lot of uphill – it’s a possibility to warm up. Right after the town we were in starts the climb. Aprox. 12km uphill starting with 7% and ending with 10% gradient. It the end I’m cycling on my feet pushing my overloaded bike snake style up the empty road. Soon we reach the clouds at the altitude of almost 1000m above see level. The clouds are very thick and it’s impossible to see further than 100m ahead. Must be dangerous thing going with car here. At the top of Sierra de Gata we enter Salamanca province. The nature is different here. Dense forest of great old trees all covered in moss witch hangs down the branches in stead of leafs witch are not flourished out yet here. And it seems that they won’t because it’s so cold and wet here. Looks like this forest is always like this. Cold water streams running along the road. There are some pastures bordered with fences made of stones. In those pastures massive and hairy cows are enjoying their morning meal. This is the first place we saw cows in Spain. We thought that they only have goats, because cows cannot climb steep hills.
After 30 km we reach Robleda mas o menos civilized place where we can eat our breakfast. Today we’re having double coffee each coz we’re freezing like in winter. My feet are freezing in the wet shoes, despite the plastic bags and dry socks I have put on in the morning.
The road slowly starts to head down and air becomes a bit warmer and also sun appears from behind the clouds. Soon we’re in Ciudad Rodrigo and old town with the fortress in the center on the top of the hill. We don’t wanna stop here because we are followed by the rainy clouds and we have a unique possibility to run away and stay dry at least one day.
6pm we’re 20km from Salamanca camping under the bridge over the road we are cycling on. There is still rain threat so we put our tent under the bridge. After a long cold day we have to regain our energy and war up. We are cooking early dinner and hanging out in the sleeping bags.
23rd April
The morning is overcast and cold. Put our stuff quickly together we race for the breakfast to Salamanca, but for our surprise today is some kind of fiesta in all province so all big shops are closed. We get some biscuits, rice and canned vegetables in small shop, check out the old town witch is popular for its architecture and we’re leaving this town.
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| salamanca - tourist photo |
Road today ain’t so exciting. All day we are surrounded by fields and pastures. We’re cycling in direction of Toro. At least wind blows in the back and sun appears once in a while.
Today we camp behind Toro. In the field , but here is some fallen and dried tree so we’re having a fire tonight and making delicious rice with vegetables and baking bread.
I’m feeling tired of cycling annoyed by everything. I wanna wash my clothes because they are all dirty and stinky after those rainy days. And weather seems to become colder. Is it because of rains or because we’re moving north?
24th April
All the day we are struggling with the heavy head wind. Mountains are gone and all we see 360 around us are huge, endless fields of wheat. There are no obstacles to slow down the wind and there are no possibilities to hide from it. We use each other in turns as the wind shield and slowly are pushing our way forward.
All the day we are passing through small villages with the name something-something de campo (Campo is field in Spanish) very appropriate names for this area. I was wondering how do people live here in summertime when the sun is frying everything. There are no rivers, no lakes, not even a forest to hide from the heat. For sure I would not like to live here.
Today we have only done 80 kilometers, but it felt like 180. We’re camping in tall grass field away from the road and hiding from the wind behind an earth bank. We made a fire, boiled water for mate and cooked a fantastic soup of rice and leftover vegetable we had, baked some breads and the rest of the evening we are spending by fire getting warm, because the night is getting cold. Don’t wanna go to tent, it’s humid and cold.
The night is cold, my feet are freezing. I cant fall asleep and thinking of how the weather and the nature is changing while we’re moving steadily north. No more mandarins, lemons and oranges from plantations and wild trees…
25th April
Morning is cold. Tent is wet and sky is overcast. First seemed that the wind is finally gone, but it was false assumption. As soon as we got on the road and rode out of the small forestation, we where enjoying again fairly strong head wind. My mood is down. Cycling in the wind is physically and mentally hard for me. It seems that all day you’re going uphill and you wont get that satisfaction run down the descent.
We had to go 30km until we got to the first town with the gas station where we got water to boil some pasta.
As we where moving forward the fields where disappearing and more forestation showed up. More shielding from the wind. By the end of the day we pass small town of Alar del Rey and we’re approaching mountains again. Tomorrow if everything goes well we’ll be in Santander.
I’m feeling tired of cycling. I want day off, but the weather isn’t nice and there is also no good place to stay.
26th April
Morning is cold again. Not very enthusiastic about cycling we slowly pack our things and go out on the road. The wind is still here, still blows hard. One thing is good today the sun finally is visible. We cycle to Aguilar de Campoo to have some breakfast and in this time it started to rain. We need a place to hide so we’re feasting on the door sill of the block house. Cacao and biscuits with choco paste - a huge load of calories for the challenge that lies ahead.
Rain is over in some minutes and we’re cycling forward. The wind is wild, accompanied with pretty big hills and no forest makes our journey even harder. I’m pushing forward and Gita is hiding behind me. After 1h of cycling I’m done. Calorie rich breakfast didn’t help me. We hide from the wind behind abandoned gas station and getting back our breath. A huge long and straight climb lies ahead. And now it’s Gitas turn to lead. Steady we climb uphill. It’s a big relief for me to cycle behind, so I can regain force to take next shift.
After 13km we’re cycle into Reinosa – small industrial town between the mountain peeks. There a nice dumpster bonus awaits us: a bag full of strawberries, some pears, mandarins and couple lettuces. We got rid of berries not going far away and now with full bellies we’re continuing. The sun shines and we’re feeling much better now. It’s always inspiring to find something for free.
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| end of the road |
We’re out of the town and suddenly starts a steep descent of 9,5% along the river. It goes on and on and in the end reaches at least 30 kilometers of nonstop downhill. Finally we’re regaining speed, building up daily average speed and enjoying astonishing views of cliffs and rock overgrown with fresh green, juicy spring vegetation. We also feel how it’s getting warmer and warmer as we roll downhill. A big surprise for us was to see palms and citrus trees again; it seems that they grow only close to the coast.
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| down, down, down it goes .... 30 kilometers to the northern shore |
By the evening we’re at Torrelavega. We take a jar of Turkish peas and cycle out of the town to find a place for camp.
27th April
Morning was chilly, but much warmer than days before. After couple of kilometers we’re charging gadgets and ourselves with cookies and chocolate paste and remains of strawberries at our favorite gas station in Spain – Repsol. Finally sun is out and day becoming warmer and warmer. We washed some of our dirty clothes in Repsol toilets put them on bikes to dry and away we go.
Today road is super beautiful again with many magnificent sights, hill going up and down and the wind is our best friend again.
Nature in the north of Spain is much more different from one in south. Here is a lot of forestation, hills are covered not only with rocks, some bushes and some cactuses, but they are rich in green, fresh grass, different types of thick bushy growth. Here are a lot of pastures where beefy cows spend their days chewing juicy grass.
On our way to coast we check out one dumpster of ALDI shop chain witch recently appeared in this region and find 200g of still valid cheese and jag of nuts. Now we have expensive cheese so we decide to make a day off tomorrow and make some cheese sandwiches. As we consumed found nuts on the spot we move forward. Northern coast awaits us.
Very soon from coastal mountain range we notice first tourist towns and finally shore of Biscay Bay near Laredo town. It’s +25C outside, but wind makes it seem colder.
In this area there are a lot of mountains along the coast and our N-634 road winds along the coastal mountains. The traffic is very light here, because a motorway goes along the way. It’s very pleasant to cycle here and a lot of road cyclists are sharing my opinion and training in packs here.
Views from mountains charmed me and I didn’t even noticed how we enterer the Basque country. Names of towns didn’t sound like Spanish anymore and commercial banners where written in weird ‘Spanish like’ language. Then I remembered about political situation in this region, about struggle for independence and also about Basque separatists and explosions. I hope that these won’t bother us. Very soon we’re already in suburbia of Bilbo. The day is coming to the end and we need to find a camp, it’s impossible to stay before Bilbo – it’s too urbanized here, so we need to go through the city and get out of it before sun sets.
The city was huge with the river going through the center and only couple of bridges to cross it. Bilbo didn’t impress me very much. The city reminded me of our first day in Barcelona: many streets, heavy traffic and bad pavement. The only thing that seemed interesting to me Bilbo, that it is totally surrounded by mountains. Some peaks where in the centre of the city with roads going up and down and some cut through mountain tunnels.
Luckily we got through town pretty fast with no incidents. It took us only about 2h to get through all urbanization. We found an old abandoned house not far away from Bilbo with overgrown yard where we put our tent. For dinner we made pasta with fresh picked nettle for vitamins and iron.
I’m very excited bout tomorrow; finally we’ll have a day off. We bought a lot of tasty food and snacks, now we need only a good place to stay.
28th April
I could not fall asleep this night. It seemed that I’m still full of energy. Eyes were not closing at all. Different thoughts where running through my mind. Suddenly I realized that we’re already a month on the road. And there is approximately one month more to go… I’m feeling two ways about it. I don’t wanna get home, because I’ll be sucked in normal every day life, working, doing things, but I’m also feeling tired of cycling and being in different places not knowing what will happen next. Maybe I just need to take a break and that is what we’ll do today.
My hopes partly came true. We found a place, but before that we had to cycle 70km. Going down to coast along the mountain river Deba to coastal town of the same name. Beautiful touristy place, but no place to camp for people like us, so we move on to the next town – Zemaia. There we found a place near the river almost in the centre of the town. Not very neat, there is industrial territories right across the river and bicycle path where people walk, jog and cycle, but we won’t find anything better here today and the sea coast is too rocky with steep cliffs to camp there.
We unload our iron horses, unpack our stuff and go into the river to take a swim and wash ourselves and our clothes. While the sun is up we’re lay in the grass and soak op warm sun rays.
We need to make a fire tonight to make food and boil condensed milk so we need a place to hide it from people, making it by the river in the town is too risky. Luckily there was a place behind bushes on our side of the river bank by the cliff. We gather wood from the old boats rotting on the bank and wait for the darkness.
After nine I visit one local DIA supermarket dumpster and find there big garbage bag of today baked baguettes and some fruits in good condition, that reminded me of good days in Barcelona. In good mood and proud like hunter I return to our camp. Today were eating rice with vegetables and bread and drinking sangria for desert. Gita went to sleep early, but I stay up late and watch condensed milk slowly boil on fire. It was a good day.
29th April
Sleeping by the cliff was warm and cozy especially after sangria. We packed our bags and decided to pay a visit to that bread dumpster again and we where lucky again. During the late evening or early in the morning shop threw out some good stuff again: a lot of perfectly good onions, tomatoes, bananas, some puddings and best of all many bags of different spices – oregano, dried tomatoes, garlic and more.
After that we head to the beach to have a breakfast. Cheese sandwiches with tomatoes and onions are waiting for us.
Today we will be passing the border. It’s only 55km from here to France. After breakfast we lay a bit on the beach relaxing and we’re ready to go.
Our road goes along the beautiful shore to Irun – the border city of Spain. The last big city we visited in Spain was San Sebastian – big and old, but very tidy as coastal tourist city should be. We’re not stopping here; just enjoy what lies on our way. At this point we met a lot of road cyclists here – undoubtedly a good place to train or just take the best of road cycling.
Soon we’re at the border, but the border is not noticeable, just a bridge over the small river and all signs and banners suddenly turn in French. In place of border control buildings is a market selling souvenirs.
Signs and adverts are mas o menos understandable, but I feel a bit nauseous that we’re in land where little people speak English and other foreign languages and we don’t understand a thing in French. Except – Bonjour and merci. New laws and order. New mentality.
We take direction to Bergerac. After the border starts endless urbanization. Town after town, roadsides are shining with adverts, shopping malls are everywhere, a lot of pizzerias and fast food restaurants and worst of all heavy traffic and traffic jams down the highway. French drivers are more aggressive – driving fast and overtaking. Seems like everyone here is in the hurry. The road condition is also not at it’s best. One thing that delights me is that in France are precisely marked roads – every small junction is with signs, numbers and directions. Very easy to navigate.
Finally we find a quiet place around Tarnos in a small forest. Tonight we’re cooking stewed vegetables. Very good change in our daily ration. With found spices vegetables are just perfect. Only mosquitoes witch showed up suddenly spoiling our supper a little bit. For dessert the last Spanish orange and we’re off to sleep.
I’m feeling tired and my legs are heavy filled with lactic acid. My body wasn’t able to restore during the day off.
30th April
We where sleeping next to bamboo forest. In the morning I decided to cut down on fat piece of bamboo and make yerba mate cups of it. It wasn’t so easy, bamboo plant is very hard to cut down, especially with a knife. It’s very durable. No wonder why many things are made from it. Also bike frames. (So I brought almost 1kg heavy bamboo stick all the way to Latvia).
France amazed me with that here are no usual petrol stations. Most petrol stations in FR are automated, self serviced places. There are no air, no water and no shops. But there is car wash. Only usable stations in France where TOTAL. So we had to ask water from restaurant and also charge my phone there while we where eating outside in the sun.
The rest of the day we are pedaling down the D810 road, witch turned into motorway and we had to use service roads along it, all the time jumping from one side to the other as it snaked along the motorway.
In the evening we’re in Pissos got some water and making a camp by the river. Nice place – reminds me of our Latvian forest rivers like Gauja. As soon as we collected fire wood heavy rain started to pour down. We needed a shelter quick, so we ran to the bridge over the river. Rain wasn’t stopping so we decided to make a fire under the bridge. The place was dry and warm with sand underneath. We have cooked a vegetable soup tonight. Afterwards we are sitting by the fire until 2 o’clock. I’m boiling condensed milk and Gita is baking bread with cumin. That night we slept under the bridge by the fire place – warm and nice.
1st May
I woke up today nice and warm, the sun was shining and all the signs of the rain where gone. Today is international workers day and in Riga there is traditional Critical Mass ride, but this time not for us. We pack our stuff and head to nearest town to have a breakfast. Today we’re eating biscuits with boiled condensed milk and cacao. Amazing! Delicious! Superb!
French have nice small towns. With neat frenchy houses with tile roofs and clean white window frames. All the houses have window shields. In every town there is the same looking Marie with French national flags waving, balcony and a clock. I can imagine how in 19th century town mayor used to come out on the balcony and declare a new rule. An also there is a stone made memorial...
Today vast forest plains turned into grape hills. At every house there is a sign to try out and by ‘probably the best wine in the country.
80km behind and it’s time to have a lunch: boiled spaghettis with lettuce salad, accompanied with a time off in the sun. Our daily rest was interrupted by closing in storm clouds. If we don’t wanna to get wet again it’s time to cycle on although we’re still tired and feeling sleepy. Wind is in the right direction and we have a possibility to run away from the storm.
In the evening we’re a St. Foy de la Grande where we with hardship encounter water for the night and head to nearest grape plantation to put up a tent. There’s no other options. France is very populated and everywhere lay private territories.
The cloud we where running from cached us up soon as we put up the camp. It looks like that there will be a downpour, but we’re ready for it…
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| mist in the valley |
2nd May
We had a good sleep in grape plantation there was no rain at all the only thing we didn’t take in count a neaby railway and super noisy speed trains that were coursin all through the night. Every time the train where passing by I woke up in horror and not really understanding what’s going on.
In the morning we’re at Bergerac, nice touristy town. We’re visiting first DECATHLON sport shop in France. We need gas and a new tire for me, my MAXXIS Detonator is totally used up. Cordage starts to stick out and I’m staring to get frequent flats. I take one more B-twin tire for me.
In the town we found info centre, so Gita can manage her work things and I can check Google maps to make decent route through France and Germany, because I cannot see all route overview in my phone maps. Afterwards we visit first LIDL in France, to check out cheep local goods. There are no galletas ‘Maria’ in France, but instead for the same price we took 800g of French cake. Not as good as biscuits in my opinion – too crumby and it’s hard to spread something on it, but still sweet, tasty and rich in calories. Swallowed half of that cake and emptied 2 cans of coke each we continue on N21 to Limoges. It was pretty exciting road to ride on especially after straight and boring day on D810. Only it’s a national road and there is heavy traffic, many truck wich tend to pass us very close. That makes me bit nervous and remembering my bike trips through Poland.
In the evening we find a place in a forest, between small villages. Dry forest with all ground covered in thick layer of dry leaves. Later we found out that it was a forest with many edible chestnuts growing around, we also managed to find some on the ground. Delicious and nutritious nuts covered with very sharp spiky peel.
We have a fire tonight and we’re making our fire bread and cooking pasta with vegetables. It’s was so pleasant to sleep on soft leaf bed afterwards. After this day I feel mentally exhausted. I’m starting to have less and less fun from cycling and more and more fun of food breaks. We need to find a good place to rest…
3rd May
Without breakfast we cycle to Limoges. There we find an internet café for Gita to take care of her job things while I take care of our bike health: tightening bolts, cleaning sprockets and oiling chains. It’s around noon it starts to rain; we need to hide somewhere and buy breakfast. Soon we find ourselves at local ALDI supermarket. Before going to by some stuff in the shop we decided to check out dumpster. It was incredible what we found there. I haven’t seen for a long time this amount of wasted food. Big container filled with different types of sandwiches, milk, fruits and vegetables, sweets and packed meet products much of which where packed in plastic broilers. We’re in shock!
We took as much as we could eat and carry with us, but still there where a lot left behind. Capitalist market system is so horribly wasteful, such an enormous waste of recourses, time, power and animal lives, but a good opportunity to eat for free for us though.
After a huge meal we continue our journey slowly making progress because our bikes are heavy overloaded with food and our stomachs are overfilled too.
We continue in direction of Montlucon, taking small country roads with almost no traffic and beautiful sights on French forests and green spring fields. There are may dinky 18th century French chateaus witch where surly inhabited by some kind of aristocrats in the past.
By the evening we ride by one more ALDI and decide to check that one too and again we find some good vegetables fruits and some puddings. I think ALDI will be our main trip sponsor in France. Just a few kilometers further we find a good camps spot in vehicle rest area. There is nice green field and couple of picnic tables. We haven’t eaten at the table for a long time. We’re cooking potatoes and making salad everything is from things we found today. We also have a good desert. After the meal we’re again totally stuffed. It’s getting cold, time to go to sleep.
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| wasted fresh fruits - not for me... |
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France
Free food from Magic Trash bins
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4th May
Morning is cold. We are at the top of 600m hill, everything around is covered in dew. I can see a village below is covered in mist; witch slowly rises up as day becomes warmer. 10 o’clock and it’s still cold up here, so we put some extra clothes, gloves and caps and head downhill.
All day is spent cycling and eating snacks we recycled. At every ALDI we stopped we found something new and delicious.
By the evening we reach Montlucon. It’s hilly around here, but slopes of these hill ain’t steep, road slowly progresses uphill with little gradient for couple of kilometers. And on the top it slowly starts to go down showing to us vast green valleys with small villages sifted out all around.
Montlucon is situated in one of theses valleys. We enter the city at car speed going downhill fast. Only thing we have to do here is find a gas station and charge my mobile. TOTAL gas station helps us with that and after a quick charge we are struggling against the hill at the other side of the valley. Day comes to the end and we have to find a place to stay. I’m also not feeling so good. I think too much food and heavy exercise going uphill are not doing well for me.
Soon we found a small area to camp at the side of motorway construction sight. At this point I’m starting to feel really ill. I feel weak and cold. I put on all the clothes I have, crawl in tent and put on sleeping bag but still I’m cold and shivering. Gita makes food, but I’m not hungry at all I think I had too much today. Or could it be food poisoning? Gita is ok.
All night is spent in nightmares, tossing and turning. My stomach hurts and I want to puke. I fell asleep normally only in early morning. I have to control my eating with this amount of food we have. Don’t wanna feel like this again.
5th May
In the morning I feel much better. Head hurts a bit, but it’s good that all other symptoms are gone. We jump on the bikes and cycle 10km to nearest rest sight to have a breakfast. Now I feel 100% good. Today we plan to reach Moulins witch is only 50km from here. Maybe we’ll find a good place to rest there.
Those were very long 50 kilometres even beautiful sights of juicy French forests, nice small villages and blooming meadows with grazing cows could not make them shorter. At the arrival to Moulins I’m 100% sure that we’ll stay here no matter what. I’m super tired and physically and mentally and I don’t wanna cycle today any more and tomorrow also. We got lucky. We found an excellent place to camp on the banks of river Allier, on the outskirts of the city. Woods, pebbly beach, place for fire and almost no people. Weather is also hot and sunny. Looks like we have a good combination for a good day off.
While Gita is building our camp I’m going to centre of the city to ‘hunt’ some food. We learned that in every town in tourist information bureau it’s possible to get free maps and information about nearest supermarkets. Guided by my GPS I head straight to info centre right into old town of Moulins. As all old towns it’s somehow beautiful, but I’m not a huge fan of architecture so I’m not really excited. I feel more bummed that roads in old town just like in Old Riga are covered with bricks and that shaking on the road bike pisses me off. In tourist office I’ve got all information I needed and now I roll straight to nearest supermarket. For my big surprise it’s DIA (Spanish supermarket chain) there I buy a bottle of French bubbly wine and dark chocolate witch are very cheep in France. I paid ~1,50 euros for both. On the way back to camp I decided to check huge dumpster of local E.Leclerck market. And again I’m granted with couple of bottles of mineral water, yogurts, eggs, pack of sugar, some sweets, milk and box of 12 beer bottles and snacks. We’re gonna have fiesta grande tonight! Beer, food, sun, beach and river – everything is for free!
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France, Moulins
Day by the river Alier.
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We used to bake bread, because it was cheaper than just buy it.
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During the rest of the day we’re washing our clothes and ourselves. In the evening we have pasta with vegetables and for desert tonight we’ll have French wine with expensive recycled French cheese – very frenchy! Night is calm and warm.
6th May - day off
Today I woke up with a nice feeling that I don’t have to cycle today and there is hell of a lot food and drinks for two of us. All the day we enjoy cold beers, hot sun and Allier river, watching locals going by to fish and walking disobedient dogs. French people are not communicable and friendly as Spanish are, no one asked us anything that day. I’m sure that Spanish folks would come up and ask something like ‘where are you from?’, ‘where do you head?’ or at least ‘hola!’ for sure.
In the evening I cycle to the city again to check dumpsters and get drinkable water. E.Leclerc is closed, but I managed to find a small vegetable store with crates at the backdoor filled with all kind of ‘bad’ fruits and vegetables: a bit dry apples, bananas with black spots, bit soft tomatoes, some other vegetables and couple of perfect melons. Fiesta continues! Tonight we’ll eat vegetable soup with our DIY breads. We’re sitting late by the fire place talking bout life and future plans and the road ahead.
7th May
Night was hot; I was sleeping out of sleeping bag. In the morning we’re making our own cakes on fire from recycled eggs, apples, milk and sugar. We’re professional bonfire bakers now. They where perfect only a bit smoky and burned from below. We have a breakfast on the spot, pack our camp and roll in direction of Dijon.
We have strong head wind a bit from the side today, but I feel rested and don’t worry much about the wind. Once in a while we’re passing through forests and bushes where we can relax from wind blows. Only thing that bothers me most is thirst, there is no water in gas stations, no toilets in shops and no houses around. I’m a bit pissed at French toilet culture/industry, all toilets are in bad conditions an in many of them there is no possibility to fill up the water. We have found more water thrown out in the trash than filled it from the taps. Anyway the next town we pass - Burbon-Lancy in ALDIs’ trash we fond pineapple juice, water, small bottles with some kind of kids apple beer with only 1% of alcohol, some bananas and puddings.
Soon the road turns and we have wind on our side again. Day goes by quickly, nothing spectacular to see today. In evening we’re at Atun, my phone is dead and we have to navigate only by watching road signs. In the city we managed to find one more amazing dumpster, on of the biggest catches on or way. Containers filled with Pepsi bottles, different types of beer, wine, sweets, chips, pasta and different types of cheese. You can take everything out and make great feast on the spot for many people. Again we took as much as we could with us, cycled out of the city and made a feast just for two of us in the meadow.
8th May
I feel a bit hangover after yesterdays 1,5L of calimucho (coke with wine) and in rains very lightly in the morning. We head to the nearest rest sight. These are very popular in France. It’s easy to find them. After the breakfast I put in recycled Duracell battery in my old mp3 player and uplifted by music cycle in direction of Dijon following the signs coz the phone is still dead. Soon we find ourselves at the entrance of autobahn. What a bummer! Fortunately there two gendarmes one of whom spoke un poco italiano. He explained us the way as much as he could do it and we understood as much as we could and after 4km down the shown road we’re standing again on the crossroads not knowing where to turn. Only after 5 minutes of investigating stones from previous centuries on the side of the crossroads with engraved directions and destinations of these two roads, we choose the right direction to Dijon. After climbing couple of bigger hills we’re again bump into autobahn. No signs of the service road. So we turn to nearest highway service station to ask help and to charge the phone there. The guy didn’t speak almost any English, but he understood what I wanted. While the phone was charging we’re eating lunch on stations territory in the sun.
Last kilometres to Dijon curl around autobahn, all the time going downhill. 10 kilometres before the city we take bicycle path witch goes along channel and the road. Nice change in daily routine for us, and a possibility to check out French bike culture. There where many people on this path, different ages mostly riding shitty supermarket, full suspension MTBs with no helmets. I used to think that France is ‘cycling country’ because of Tour de France, but I must say that Spanish people are way ahead with their cycling culture.
Dijon was our last checkpoint before we take direction to German border – direction to Strasbourg. It’s Sunday afternoon and the city is quiet. We roll slowly through city enjoying views of old houses and architecture. Dijon is a big city, but we pass through it very quick because the streets are empty. We exit the city and head to Strasbourg – city with long and complicated history.
After our day off in Moulins I feel again full of energy and excited by our trip and what follows. I can’t wait to enter Germany. Rich country with cheep snacks, people speaking good English and great quality roads. I’ve had enough of France now.
9th May
I have nothing much to write about 9th of May. Woke up with a thought that today in Latvia WWII veterans are making party in Riga by the victory monument and all media is talking about it as usual. I wanna congratulate may grandma, because it’s important for her, but my phone is again dead.
All day we’re fighting strong head wind. It’s a hot day and I’m all the time thirsty although the stomach is full of water. It’s hard to get free water in Fance, which pisses me off too.
During the day we’re stopping at some river to take a swim, it’s midday and it’s too hot to ride. River was fast with rapids and pretty cold water, but refreshing though. After a nice swim we’re having lunch and drinking last mate that we had with us.
It rolls much easier after lunch. In the evening we’re on D57bis road wich goes through dense fir forest. The forest looks like one from those scary movies about witches. Sun is setting down. Very impressive view. Road goes all the way up and somewhere down in the distance flows little rapid river. After sunset we’re in Plombieres-les-Bains, it’s probably the most beautiful town I saw in France. Plombieres is situated in mountain massive between two big hills. A small town with only one main road going through it. The town is popular for it’s thermal springs. Plombieres had one of nicest architecture I saw – a lot of different classical French houses, very luxurious and gorgeous. Most of those houses where hotels. Probably they cost a lot here. Houses are built on slopes of the hills on different levels giving the Spanish mountain village looks, but with French fanciness. It was getting dark, so unfortunately we didn’t have time to wonder around town.
We found a place not far away from Plombieres in a mountain meadow. There is some dry wood and we’re having a bonfire tonight. As usual night is chilly in the mountains.
10th May
I woke up in a good mood, today we’re gonna be out of France if we’ll be able to cycle 130km. We have fairly strong tail wind. Everything rolls well. We’re cycling today up and down hills. During the day we have climbed also couple of bigger mountains. Pleasant memories of Spain arose. In Saint-die-des-Vosges we’re picking up some fruits and vegetables from dumpster and having a quick lunch.
We’re taking the shortest way to Strasbourg down the D1420 road that goes through mountain area. We had to pass a couple of tunnels, one was pretty scary, we couldn’t see the light in the end and the traffic was enormous there, cars where passing at huge speed. I wanted to be out of tunnel as soon as possible, so I pedalled as fast as possible trying not to loose Gita behind. I don’t know why, but I was scared more for her not for me. Soon after tunnel the road turns into motorway with no way to turn away from it. Cars are passing by honking at us. I can’t do nothing, just continue to pedal hard. Our exit is in 10 kilometres reach. Well what do you think? We are stopped by gendarmes 1 km before exit. They are not speaking English and we’re not speaking French, It seems a problem for them not for us, they look like they don’t know what to do with us. I ask them to escort us that only kilometre to our exit, but they don’t understand. Finally police helps us to carry our bikes over the trench at the side of the road and explains us how to get to Mutzig (the town where we get off from this road). By the way after a tunnel we passed I noticed that all town names sound German now. It seems that we’re travelling on ex- German land.
By the evening we’re finally entering Strasbourg. Here are a lot of bicyclists, a lot of traffic lights and a lot of deep holes in asphalt - amazingly bad pavement for a city like Strasbourg. We’re not stopping here; we want to get to Germany today. Crossed a bridge over Rhine and we’re in Deutchland. Again no signs of border. Road signs changed, gas stations are with toilets and asphalt is super smooth.
We’re rolling 10kilometres more and camping in a field. Today we’re eating recycled pasta with recycled cheese and salad. Rain is coming. As soon as we finished out supper it starts to rain, and continues on for almost all night, but very lightly.
Today my dream came true: we made it to Germany. And with record average speed of 24 km/h and record distance cycled: 166km.
11th May
Gutten morgen Deutchland!!! You are very fat and beautiful country I like you very much. Especially after France it’s so nice here, everyone speaks ‘a little bit English’. Roads just perfect only heavily filled with cars even the smaller ones. Luckily there are everywhere cycle paths, witch unfortunately are not much help for us, because they don’t go all the time by the road we’re following. That confuses me and after couple of tries to go on cycle paths we decide just to take the road. It was nice of Germans to make those paths, but it seemed like another attempt to get cyclists out of motorist way – not to help cyclist. Although drivers in Germany in my opinion are nice an polite to cyclists. Many times they stopped behind us not being able to take over and waited patiently for the moment not bothered about we’re cycling as close to the side as possible. But the most amazing thing about Germany is recycling. We where going through country for 5 days and only spent 1 euro on bread and peanut snacks I wanted so badly. I must say it’s hard to starve in Germany for freegan more possible to gain weight. But that’s no problem for us – we’re active!
12th May
Germany is sinking in chocolate fat!!! After yesterday we decided not to go into shops at all. There is too much good stuff thrown out. In the morning we’re cycling through first big city in Germany – Heilbronn. We passed it pretty fast and now we’re bombing hills all utilized for grape gardens. Amazing 300m mountains are all turned into grape plantations. It starts to rain and we seek shelter in the fist Netto supermarket. Here where we found our breakfast and a lot more. Big bag of Kinder chocolates, kilo of cheese, some bread spreads and perfect vegetables. That stuff wasn’t even put into containers, just left in the crates. Maybe for poor people? For us? So we’re waiting for the rain to stop and having excellent breakfast.
Rain doesn’t stop, but becomes lighter and we decide to move. To satisfy our curiosity we check next Netto on our way and again amazing bonus of fresh fruits, vegetables, cooking oil and potato pancakes. Our bikes are overloaded again!
Weather got better in afternoon; we’re cycling through small villages through the mountains, off the main road and going down smaller ones. There is almost no traffic here, but pavement quality is still very high, in Latvia these roads would be of gravel, that’s for sure. Forests radiate amazing spring aroma after the rain, the sun comes out of mountains and I’m high on endorphins. Everything seems wonderful: nature, weather, free food even couple of pretty hard climbs can’t spoil my mood.
In afternoon when we stopped at one small town for a lunch we check again the ‘back door’ of two supermarkets. I’m totally shocked because I never seen something like that. One container half full of chocolate Easter bunnies, bottles of whine, salads and sauces. We’re gonna have a party again tonight!
We didn’t cycle far from there, bikes are just too overloaded. We find a nice place in meadow by the forest and set up a camp. Gita is grouchy and tired and falls asleep right away while I enjoy the last sun rays and bottle of sweet German wine. When I was done with whine I prepare some fresh vegetable salad and make a fire. Tonight I’ll cook potato pancakes on fire in our tea bowler. We have a lot of oil. It took me a while because it was possible to fry only one pancake at a time. But the result was outstanding. Pancakes made on fire with sour cream we found, fresh salad and wine. What can be better? I’m so happy I can enjoy my time here in Germany and don’t spend any money.
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Also in Germany Trash Gods had taken care of our bellies
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13th May
Morning is nice and sunny. Cycling is easy and relaxed. In first half of the day we reach Nurnberg. We found a nice place to eat at entrance of the city in Feberwald park. A nature forest like park with small pond in the centre equipped with picnic tables.
Nurnberg itself is a big busy city with heavy traffic and impressive architecture especially old town fortes in the heart of the city. The city reminded me of my visit to Berlin last summer. Large streets filled with cars and huge blocks of houses, a lot of people and cyclists running and rolling around.
Only thanks to GPS we found our way out of this urban jungle. It was last big city in Germany, now we’re moving in direction of Pilzen in Czech Republic.
After Nurnberg I made mistake in navigation for the first time, we took a wrong turn and where going in wrong direction now. We already cycled 10km down wrong road when I noticed it so we decided to camp in the forest and next morning go back to the right road.
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| bike messenger and peace messenger in German village |
It was the first evening when we run into trouble with camping. We heard of illegal tent camping in Spain, we put tents on private land in France and now we are busted for making a fire in Germany. Someone noticed the smoke from the road and called the cops. Police was actually nice to us, just asked to put out fire immediately and warned that it’s forbidden to burn fire in forests of Germany. When we said that we didn’t know and we’re cycling from Spain they looked pretty surprised. I think they didn’t believe us and our camping place in the middle of pine forest looked weird for them. I think Germans are used to comfort, bike paths and special camping places. Anyway everything ended up good. We where wished good night, good trip and police left living us in the dark of the forest. We didn’t have anything better to do except to go to sleep. Party’s over!
14th May
Morning was chilly so we had to pull on all our bike wear. Soon we got to the right road directed to Czech Republic and continued our trip down the 14th highway. We had to take bike lane because road turned into motorway. Friendly Germans explained us a direction and said that soon we can again take the road, when it will be less traffic.
By midday heavy rainstorm reached us which soon turned into rain plus hail, but we where just in right place by the bus stop. We waited for the rain to stop eating just recycled grapes and counting most popular cars in Germany. And the winner was not much of a surprise Volks Wagen, second place took Ford and third Mercedes.
After rainy clouds floated away we take wet highway into the woods. As we approach DE/CZ border there is less and less towns, only small villages once in a while and it seems like road is going slowly up. Some 15km from the border we reach 600m hill tops with amazingly long panorama views. Here I come to conclusion that south of Germany is beautiful with its’ shallow hills, huge fields and vast forests, nature that recalls our Latvian nature and complex web of roads that leads through small neat villages. Germany is a nice place to ride a bike.
Evening, border. We’re crossing at Waidhouse. Here border outposts are still present, but without staff personal. We’re again crossing the border without any document control.
I was so amazed how everything can change when you cross the border. Asphalt in Czech Republic almost immediately becomes much worse, with grooves, cracks and holes. Right at the border there is a market selling cheep fake clothes: Dulce&Banana, Mike and Abibos. Roadsides spark and shine with casino, bars and sex service ads, non-stop restaurants and bars. First small village serial houses remind me of Latvia, everything looks poor and unkempt, old dusty cars, small private houses – just like at home. We enter CZ at dusk so everything looks even more deterrent. Air smells like post-communism.
It was hard to find places to camp, fields are too swampy here. Finally we found more or less suitable place in a fir growth, set up a tent and it starts to rain. We make dinner in the tent and eat, it seems like the rain wont stop, it constantly rains with medium strength. When we finished dinner top our tent already was soaked. We put our stuff in waterproof bags to secure it from getting wet and go to sleep hoping that we won’t soak up completely with water and freeze because it’s around 10 to 14 degrees…
15th May
It was raining all night. Early in the morning (around 5 o’clock) we woke up with our sleeping bags wet, sleeping mats wet and tent totally soaked through with puddles of water collected in the lower places of the floor. I crawl outside, rain stopped, but it’s overcast, it’s super cold so I can see my breath and everything around is wet. And the worst thing that happened this morning, I discover that my Nokia 3720c that should be water proof is also soaked with water. I can see the water oozing behind the screen and water in the lens of camera. And of course the phone is not working! Al communication and navigation is lost…
Shaking and trembling we pack our camp and move to the nearest bus stop to decide what to do. After a hot cacao and snacks from Germany we decide to follow the only road that goes somewhere - I hope to Pilzen. Road goes through wonderful forests up the hill, soon we reach 700m point with awesome panorama view like in Germany, now the road flies down. It’s a bit scary to fully let of the brakes because the asphalt is wet and we don’t know what to expect from Czech roads.
After 30 km we’re having a breakfast at bus stop, eating recycled goods from Germany a bit nostalgic that there won’t be such a good recycling in post soviet counties. Tent is put up and sleeping bags hang on our bikes drying in the wind. After half an hour everything is nice and dry...
During the day we reach one of biggest Czech cities – Pilzen. Guided by the signs we go through the city in direction of Prague. City totally reminds me of Riga, Latvia and all other vast post-communist space. Featureless house projects, districts of serial multi-storey houses, used up public transport, tram rails sticking out of asphalt threatening to snake bite our wheels. Nothing nice to say. We reach the exit of the city, find a gas station, there I’m using some improvised tools take apart my mobile, clean it from water and go to toilet to dry it under hand drier. After 10 minutes... Eureka! It’s alive! Only display looks bit weird, probably because of water. I charge it a bit and we’re good to go.
Our route goes through Rokycany. I was here once when I cycled to FLUFF fest. When we reach the town it rains again. We take a quick look in local supermarket backstage and unexpectedly find some thrown out coffee, juice, some energy drinks, pasta, chips and new first aid kit for cars. We take cover from the rain and dispose of some snacks and energy drinks right away, put juice into our bottles, wait for the rain to stop and roll away.
High on caffeine we made 130km during the day. Fond a place to camp in a field crawling with huge wine snails. It’s very cold again. Hands are freezing. We prepare dinner in the tent and go to sleep. It starts to rain again a little bit… I hope it won’t end up like last night. This time my mobile is in secure place…
16th May
Night was warm. Woke up in the morning, fast but powerful breakfast of 12 sandwiches with coffee and we’re good to go. Little left to Prague where we going to meet Martin (a guy who organised last year a gig in Prague for my band) and crash at his place for a day. We haven’t communicated with ‘other’ people for a long time so I’m a bit worried. Maybe 2 months on the road made me anti-social?
I was once in Prague, but never on a bike. It’s not a pleasant city to cycle in my opinion. Many multiple lane streets with poor pavement and racer type drivers. One of them almost crashed into other car right next to us. Noise of creaking of wheels and smell of burned rubber. Although city is beautiful and popular with its old architecture, it’s also hideous and endless in its size and suburbia. Endless mega moles situated in outskirts of the city, the same serial multi storey project houses like in Pilzen. Prague is so big it’s divided in districts with very ‘1984’ like names: Praha 1, Praha 2, Praha 3 and so on… It took us one and a half hours to get across the city to where Martin lives.
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| mmm...sweet... |
Martin is a friendly and polite skate boarding and punk rocking guy with a nice flat. It was a pleasure for us to, after such a long time, enjoy the achievements of humanity: warm shower, kitchen with normal cooker and normal plates, couch and internet. We spent half a day washing ourselves, surfing net and gulping fresh baked buns with cheese and drinking tea. In the evening we went out for a walk to Plagues high points and popular hang out places. We also took the tram ride. I haven’t been riding public transport for many years, since I work as bike messenger, so that was intense experience for me, especially when one of trams was just like tram in Riga. We’re home late and tired…
17th May
Sleeping was amazing. Mattresses on the flour were not nuisance for us. I’m now so used to sleep on solid surfaces; at least flour was perfectly straight. We took a little time to make breakfast, ate delicious ‘chocokiss type’ dessert Martin bought for us - sugar addicts. Last internet check, last words with our host and we’re on the road again. Leaving Prague was much easy, we didn’t have to ride through all the city again. There is aprox. 250km to Wroclaw, there we’ll take the train across Poland. I hope we’ll make it in two days.
The road is very irritating, nothing interesting to see, hell of a lot of holes and cracks in the ground, some where pretty dangerous for cyclists. Enormous traffic passing by. Narrow roads and many trucks what could be better? I plug in my player with new mp3s, crank up the volume, clench my teeth and pedal. At least wind is a helper.
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Meadows of Czech Republic
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Late in the evening we pass CZ/PL border. Many trucks at the border, some signs of border control also, but it’s more for truck, so we carry on unstopped. We crossed border on Beloves/Kudowa-Zdroj. It’s a hilly area and it’s hard to find flat peace of land to build a tent. Finally we found a small peace of ground not far from the road more or less flat and nicely covered in dry leaves. The sleep will be soft tonight. Unfortunately we’re on Nr. 8 highway - major transit highway that goes all the way through Poland, heavily packed with trucks running on high speed in a hurry to make their cargo delivery. They will spoil our sleep tonight for sure…
Tomorrow we have to make 113km to Wroclaw and be there before 11 pm to get on the train. I hope we’ll make it. My mind is set to getting home as soon as possible. I’m tired of tripping especially when we’re in a country where is nothing much to see on the road…
18th May
Trucks where roaring all night long, but we where tired and that was not a problem to us to sleep. In the morning we woke up rested nicely on the soft leaves, pack our stuff and head over the hill for a breakfast. Finishing up muesli we bought in CZ we’re good to go. Weather is nice and sun is shining. I can’t wait to get to the train station.
Muesli was kind of light breakfast for us and only after 2h of riding our tanks are empty. We’re just in time to small town with Biedronka supermarket where we decided to check out first recycling spot in Poland. We found the container, but it was locked inside the booth. The lid was open and we could see that it’s full of vegetables, fruits and best of all - 3 crates of bio yogurt. But the booth is locked. Pacing a while, looking at all the stuff inside we decided to break open the booth doors, because they where locked improperly and with a good squeeze they would pop open. It could be a dangerous mission, so we prepared a big bag for the catch, put our bikes closer, popped the door open than grabbed as much as we could and quickly disappeared from ‘crime scene’. I’m still wondering why supermarkets in poorer countries deny access to dumpstered food where some people might need it while in richer counties this food is freely available. Anyway we had a great lunch in the sun afterwards, with as many yogurts as we could eat; they still had one day left till they expired. After lunch and nap we finish 30km to Wroclaw.
I was first time in Wroclaw, but it reminded me a lot of Warsaw, with its wide, cracky roads, heavy traffic jams and dense population. Soon we’re at Wroclaw central station, wich is under construction now and it’s hard to find anything there. We also will be riding first time trains in Poland so I don’t know exactly what to do and where to go. Finally we have found our way through nasty looking station tunnels we encounter a ticket office. There as no surprise for me no one speaks any English or Russian. So I had to apply my ‘Polish speaking skills’ combined with sign language and got 2 tickets plus 2 bike tickets for evening train witch goes to Warsaw where we’ll have a transfer to a Suwalki train. It costed us 16Ls each. Now we have some hours before the train so we head to the shop to by some food and snacks for train party…
Train party unfortunately was not meant to be as it was planed. Waiting on a grimy platform for our train witch was delaying I suddenly heard an English conversation between Polish and Spanish students. Polish guy was saying that train is delayed at least 3 hours! That is very bad news for us because we won’t be in time to Warsaw to catch a train to Suwalki. Next train will be only after 24 hours and we don’t have anywhere to stay here. Polish guy suggested us not to stay in park for a night because of football hooligans and gypsies. Just perfect! In the end I stood in enormous line where everyone wanted to change their tickets back for the money. I wanted to exchange tickets for next day. After 10-15 minutes I have new tickets in my hands. Go back to platform to meet Gita, we have a little discussion about our night perspectives and decide just to go with delayed train and see what will happen in Warsaw, maybe there will be one more train that will go to Suwalki.
Our train arrived some 3 hours and a half later that it should be to the wrong platform so we had to run with all our stuff and bikes through the tunnels to next platform, again thanks to Polish student we knew what was happening. Otherwise it was bit strange that suddenly everyone who was waiting for the train with us suddenly rushed somewhere. We where lucky to find wagon with bike place quickly, because everyone looked seat hungry and where swarming and pushing around train doors wich didn’t fully stop yet. OK. We’re in, we have seats, place for the bikes – perfect! Now is time to relax open a beer bottle and eat something…Some Polish drunks where shouting songs in next cabin, while we where enjoying warm beer, company of old folks, wheel rumble of our train pulling wagons at enormous speed trying regain delayed time and of course pitch black view out of the window. After some hours of sitting, talking and watching polish folks fall asleep one by one we exit our cabin, go to our bikes, roll out our sleeping mats, cover us with sleeping bags and quickly fall asleep listening to loud wheel rumble.
Woke up next morning a bit hang over because of little sleep we had. It was bright outside, train still was running fast. It seemed that we’re approaching Warsaw and it’s possible that we’ll be in time for our next train. That was foolish of me to think so, but in the end when we stepped on Warsaw Wschodnia platform we where only 15 minutes late. What a pity!
This station is also under construction. What a hell? It’s took me some time to find stations temporary office and explain our situation with late train. Lady seemed that she knew all about it and quickly named alternative train route for us. Now we’re going first to Bialystok and from there to Suwalki. Ok. Better than nothing. It’s only couple of minutes left to Bialystok train so I have to run, take a bike, Gita and run to other platform. We where just in time when train arrived. No time to search for a bike wagon so we enter the closest one, there’s no people anyway boarding this train. Conductor didn’t like our idea and showed us a bike wagon at the end of the train. While we where going there the train almost left without us, luckily conductor noticed that we’re not in the train yet and stopped it. Enormous amount of stress for both of us. We’re not used to it. Long time we’re living without any schedule, alarm clocks and places to be in time and now all this happens to us.
In the wagon we can finally take our breath and boil some water on our gas stove to make ourselves fast noodles. Once in a while I like to eat this crap and Poland is a paradise for this type of food. It’s possible to find many many different types of them here. With taste additives you could not even imagine of, something like kebab noodles of even pickled cucumber noodles. Finally we’re having fun at our train trip, watching views flash by behind the window, drinking some cheep energy drink and eating raisins, discussing what happened lately to us, we totally alone in the cabin.
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| lunch |
After some hours we’re in Bialystock. Train station doesn’t look very pretty here either, but at least it’s not in ruins. Now we have couple of hours to our next and final train to Suwalki. We spend them eating purchased cheep junk food and writing our diaries, no fun at all here.
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| Bialystok train station |
Finally the train came and it’s the modern type. Looking like rocket to mars. Much better than those soviet relicts. Unfortunately there where no special places for the bikes and we had to put them by the doors taking a close look on them to ensure their stability. Train takes of finally; some hours and we’ll be in Suwalki, but my happiness was distracted by conductor who came up to us to check out tickets and said something in polish showing us the tickets. Good for us there was a young girl sitting next to us who poorly, but spoke English. She said that our tickets are not valid for this train because this train belongs to other company. Apparently there are to train companies that are working in Poland and we have the wrong tickets. Fuck! We try to explain conductor our situation with delay and lady in office from Warsaw telling us to take this route, but he des not want to understand our problem and asks us to exit on the next station. We don’t have cache money to purchase valid tickets. I feel really pissed off because all of this and Gita starts to fall into hysteria. She says to me that she won’t go anywhere; conductor will have to force her. I don’t know what to do either. I don’t wanna exit somewhere I don’t know where because lousy work of Polrail. Finally with the help of our ‘translator’ we arrange some kind of ‘loan tickets’. It’s a special kind of tickets and we have to pay for them when we’ll get to the end station. Fuck that! I’m not paying anything more! Too much trouble and stress in these couple of days…
Seven o’clock we’re finally in Suwalki relieved from all this train nonsense rolling through the city. I already recognize the streets, because I was cycling here couple of times before. The road to the border of Lithuania despite being only some 20km seems endless, but this time with strong feeling of being almost home and many thousand kilometers behind.
We cross the border again without any retention. Some kilometers more and I can recognize a small forest where I was sleeping before. Small pine forest with nice and soft ground covered with moss and dry pine needles. Prepare our last couscous and jump into tent because it impossible to eat outside and the problem is mosquitoes, hundreds, thousands of mosquitoes hungry for our blood. They won’t get it!
20th May
Lithuania is like always Lithuania. Nothing spectacular after loveliest sights of beautiful Spanish landscape. Here are flat and straight roads, moderate fields and usual households. One great thing that this time we’re not going down E67 highway through Kaunas as I do usually, but we’re taking a smaller road in direction of Siauliai – less traffic, less trucks, different view.
One more great thing bout Lithuania that we finally get to taste our bellowed rye bread and cheap T-market ice creams.
In the evening we have a soup party. We ate full pot of delicious vegetable/macaroni soup with rye bread and watched much impressive sunset than one at Atlantic Ocean, sitting in blooming dandelion field.
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| soup party |
21st May
So little is left. Some strange feeling inside pulls me home. Today we won’t make it to our home, but we’ll be in Latvia for sure. Less talking – more cycling. Again there is nothing interesting to tell until we reached the border town Zagare. Neat little town that in medieval times was part of non-existing jet Latvia. Now tidy little town with a great recreation spaces around lakes and clean streets. We visited one small shop to by some goods to celebrate our return to homeland. Sweets and some cheep alcohol - that’s what we like. Now it’s time to pass the border. Border here is virtually non-existing. But you can tell that you’re entering Latvia. The first thing that happened after crossing Latvia sign circled by EU stars suddenly fine asphalt just disappears living us on a bumpy and dusty gravel road! I was thinking of bad road conditions, but this is ludicrous. But we need to find a camp place anyway so we bump forward down gravel road. Next thing that happens, first person that we meet in Latvia is some local drunk that stops to explain us a better road, even the best road around as he says, after a while he starts to repeat himself so I think it’s time to move otherwise I’m getting nowhere. Finally we found a neat place in the dandelion field just by the road, we setup tent, start cooking and the third best thing happens. Some old lady that calls herself ‘tough granny’ stops by with her rubbish Volvo, comes to us and starts to preach that we cannot build tent on a private land, about mystic landlord that will come and then we’ll be in big trouble, clove grass, goats and that I don’t look appropriate with my piercings and my beard. Just a huge pack of bullshit. I stand listening not knowing what to say and what to do. It’s funny and sad at the same time. Finally she leaves ordering us to finish our meal and move away from the field. We of course politely ignored ‘tough granny’ orders finished our delicious pasta with gravy, then bottle of cheep cider with coconut roll and went to sleep…
Tomorrow we have still 80 km left to our home, but that’s not worth a story…
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